Sorry if this has been asked before, I did a search and came up with nothing.
I am new to all of this and am trying to determine whether I should buy a used GH2 or wait a little while and see if the Lumix-G6 becomes hackable.
Sorry if this has been asked before, I did a search and came up with nothing.
I am new to all of this and am trying to determine whether I should buy a used GH2 or wait a little while and see if the Lumix-G6 becomes hackable.
I am new to the GH2 and the patches. It appears to be a lot of scattered info that is difficult pull together. So any help is greatly appreciated.
Here is my question... Which combination of SD card and patch work reliably together?
Here is my shooting scenario...
It will be mostly indoors (bar, bedroom), low light. I am using a Rokkor 1.4 50mm lense. We will use Adobe everything, on a Mac, for post.
The other big factor is that it will be screened in a theater. So quality is very important.
Thanks again as this camera is new thing for me and any advice is very welcome.
Is there a hack like this? I need at least 30Mbps at every situation, no card erros. I used GOP 3 patches-> PAL mode sucks, Max latitude patches-> too low bitrates, no HD slow motion.
Let me introduce myself, I'm Christiaan Blok. I'm a shooter and director from Sydney, Australia. For two years I've been using a hacked GH2 for my professional work. I've shot interviews, events, short films, corporate, training and commercial video. The GH2 has followed me down mines, up arctic mountains, onto race tracks, across beaches etc.. etc.. You get the idea... I've used it a lot! :-) So, as a little thank you to the hard working people behind the hacking scene I thought I'd post my experiences and conclusions after two years of testing and shooting.
THE RIG:
PAL GH2. Shooting a mix of HBR & 24p. Shooting people, settings are generally SMOOTH -2 contrast, -2 sharpness, 0 Saturation & -2 NR. If no grading is going to happen or I'm shooting products I might bump up the sharpness & contrast a bit. I used NOSTALGIC for a while but found it added too much warmth to the image & highlights went funny. SMOOTH has nice roll-offs and good skin tones.
32GB Sandisk Class 10 Extreme HD Video 30MB/s SD cards for reliability. 2 of these make sure I have more than enough space for a day of shooting.
Official Panasonic batteries for max battery life, compatibility & reliability of the battery meter.
Voigtlander 25mm f/0.95 & 42.5mm f/0.95 - two beautiful lenses. The 42.5mm's ability to go 'click-less' is a very nice feature.
Tamron 18-50mm f/2.8 - a solid workhorse lens. Fully open and wide, this lens is a bit soft but it gets better around the 24mm mark onwards, stopped down a little. The short focus throw makes focusing a little tricky. Not knowing my exact f/stop is a bit annoying. My Novoflex adapter had issues connecting so I use a cheapo ebay adapter with iris control. This is the lens I use when I don't have time to use primes.
50mm f/1.8 Nikon E-Series - the lens I used before I got the Voigtlander 42.5mm f/0.95. A great interview & portrait lens. Very forgiving on facial features. Dirt cheap. Here's a shoot using this lens and the Sanity hack: http://www.cblok.com.au/portfolio/promotional-video/
100mm f/2.8 Nikon E-Series. A bit soft but it gets me out of trouble when I need some more zoom.
Custom Gini Rig: 2 x arm mounts, a follow focus and 1 x handle. The follow focus on this item is very, very good - BUT HUGE! I attach handles & a shoulder mount when I need it.
Zoom H4N recorder for audio
LN2MIC-ZMGH-MON cable for syncing audio from H4N to GH2 & monitoring. Set the headphone output of the H4N to 64, the input level on the GH2 to level 2 AND make sure you've installed the Pasadena Pulse Audio v2 beta patch which gives increased flexibility and quality with audio levels and recording.
Good headphones to monitor - I use the Sennheiser HD280 pro
Carbon Miller DS20 Solo. A solid, light, beautifully smooth tripod.
Small HD DP6 monitor for focus - the colour is always a bit off though.
THE HACKS:
For me to use a hack it must be ROCK STABLE. If it fails unexpectedly I never use it again. For this reason I only use:
Sanity is my workhorse - super long record times, good quality, very reliable. Anything that is time limited or I've only got 1 x shot at, Sanity is used.
Flowmotion is if I want to push quality higher eg: on a short film or larger production with more time to set up.
THE TESTS:
Driftwood Seaquake: My first hacked shoot was with Driftwood's SeaQuake 24p. File sizes were huge, recording time was limited to 4 mins & my editor complained about the files being tricky to process due to their off the charts bitrates. My editor also mentioned that grading was tricky - the image seemed to fall apart easily. Visually, the results were outstanding, however the usability of this hack was it's limiting factor. Here's the shoot, we used the 25mm Voigtlander f/0.95 lens & a single 2K:
http://www.cblok.com.au/portfolio/short-film/
Driftwood Quantum x v4b Orion CBR (HBR): I used this hack for a while on corporate shoots. For the shoots I was doing (interviews), the large file sizes seemed unnecessary. This hack failed on me a few times with grass and trees so it was scrapped.
Driftwood Quantum x Orion v4d Dark Matter + HBR Fix CBR, Driftwood Quantum x v3 rocket RC 100+M, Driftwood Sedna Q20, Driftwood Span My Bitch Up v2b
All of the above hacks failed on me on HBR, generally on grass and trees.
Sanity 5 with Pasadena Pulse Audio v2 Beta:
This hack has generally been rock solid. The only times it has failed have been situations which the creator had already warned of. That is:
Shooting EX-Tele. Often it works, however times where there is a lot of movement it may fail. For example, I was shooting off a boat using EX-Tele. The mix of Tele-EX & lots of moving water caused constant fails.
Shooting using very high ISO. Generally I stick between 160-1600 ISO. Over 2000 ISO is gets a big dodgy. The night sequences of the shoot below caused constant fails due to high movement & high ISO - we wanted it grainy though. We used the Voigtlander 25mm 0.95 & LED lights.
http://www.theengineroomproject.com/portfolio/serenity/
Flowmotion v2.02 with Pasadena Pulse Audio v2 beta:
When I want more information in the high and low-lights, more room for grading & finer grain I use this patch. Generally pretty stable, I like how it handles low-light and my editor mentioned that grading was much better. Here's a test we shot that had TONNES of highlights which generally held together:
http://www.theengineroomproject.com/portfolio/someone-has-a-problem/
The above was shot with the NOSTALGIC setting - again, I'm not too happy with how this setting treats skin tones and highlights, but the hack held together well.
As for low-light - this film was shot with SMOOTH & the Flowmotion patch and worked very nicely: http://www.cblok.com.au/portfolio/short-film-3/ It's a shame I can't post the entire film as it's doing festival circuits at the moment.
So that's my experience and over-all workflow with this camera. Its been a great little camera, but I do often miss proper ENG style ergonomics - not to mention, built in ND filters! If anyone has any questions about what I mentioned, I'll try and answer them in batches.
Cheers.
I have just started a long-format documentary project on a garden designer. After doing a number of projects with a kit that includes two unhacked GH2s, I really want the image quality for this project to be the best possible given the budget. I have just hacked one of my GH2's and want to start doing some tests and would love recommendations for patches that are reliable and can hold up to shooting very detailed garden scenes. The following is a link to a teaser for the project to give some idea of the kinds of scenes and style of shooting (all the footage for the teaser was shot with an unhacked GH2): https://vimeo.com/channels/643229
Thanks in advance!
I've looked everywhere but couldn't find one, and it's a doubt that troubles me and a lot of other people in other communities.
I was under the impression that as far as there was a public firmware available that any camera released after the GH1 was hackable by launching PTTools, loading the .BIN firmware file, applying the patch and flashing the output .BIN file. I was told this is not true.
So, gathering information from here: http://www.gh1-hack.info/wiki/VersionHistory and here: http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/ptool/ptool-faq I've come to this list, which I wouldn't mind compiling/maintaining:
GH1 - Supported - Firmware 1.1 - Most settings
GH2 - Supported - Firmware 1.11 - Most settings
GX1 - Supported - Firmware 1.1 - initial release
G1 - Supported - Firmware 1.5 - initial release
G2 - Supported - Firmware 1.1 - initial release
G3 - Supported - Firmware 1.2 - identical to GH2, except 24p support
GF1 - Supported - Firmware 1.2 - 720p settings only
GF2 - Supported - Firmware 1.1 - identical to GH2, except 24p support
GF3 - Supported - Firmware 1.2 - identical to GH2, except 24p support
TZ10: Supported - Firmware 1.2
It would also be interesting to know which cameras are being worked on.
Timelapses can be amazing, beautiful, strange, provocative. And FUN!
The day I discovered the GH2 could do 2fps I got so excited, I loaded up a full battery, put the camera on the balcony and aimed it at the shopping mall door. I got over 3+1/2h of Cinema 24p footage (@2fps) and after speeding it up 15x (to 300fps) in VirtualDub I almost couldn't believe my luck. This is what I got and I have yet to grade it properly:
Since that event, I wondered about the best way to patch up the camera to capture them. MJPEG was the obvious candidate. It's a Full Intra codec and it can be setup to capture just 2fps. That means absolutely no wasted frames unlike AVCHD, so MJPEG must be great, but there was a caveat: even with stock settings there was a capture time limit that was well below AVCHD. How is that possible since it's only capturing 2fps, the bitrates have got to be frugal? Well, it happens that there is a 2GB filesize limit within MJPEG so even after taking Driftwoods Quantum 100-50's MJPEG settings and cutting the quality to take half the bitrate, you will end with less than one hour of footage. Compare that to AVCHD and you see what got me started.
Then there was the IQ issue. I stumped into this: http://sonnati.wordpress.com/2010/10/19/h-264-for-image-compression/ which made me start another full set of tests (http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/2111/gh2-mjpeg-resolution-findings-and-myth-busting/p1) in which I found that unlike most crazy MJPEG resolutions that only seem to be 720p upscaled, the one used on Driftwoods patch was the best that ATM can be extracted from MJPEG and that even rivals with AVCHD. That test ended up on a tie, so in my book AVCHD wins for flexibility and recording time.
At the same time these tests were taking place, I fought a lot with the stock settings trying to make a patch that used GOP 13 and yes, that's the frequency at which you see major block changes when you set the shutter speed to 1/2s. This GOP13 would insure excellent quality as it makes the result Full Intra once you trash the needed frames. But the frames and limits and buffers and modes were giving me all kinds of speed messages Hell. By that time I also discovered that the null B frames that encoded no changes at 2fps were much larger than P-Frames which also appeared a lot more frequently than I wished they would. Null B-Frames were 2.5x bigger than P and when there was movement, the P-Frames would take as much space (and sometimes even more) than I frames, so I had to do something about it to make it more efficient. Meanwhile Nick @Driftwood and @LPowell were kind enough to share their knowledge and let me in on a few tricks. These allowed me to suppress B-Frames altogether and starve P-Frames to death.
So here I was armed with a bazooka and a missile and I couldn't even fire a pistol. Then a few days ago @Balazer came out with his Cake patch featuring a completely VBR approach through a Constant Quantizer as if he couldn't care less about bitrates, limits or buffers or all the stuff that was putting me down. I tried it a 2fps and I couldn't believe how well it worked. And since the frame rate I'm using is ridiculous when compared to normal video modes, there are no speed/buffer/spanning issues even if you have the slowest SD card in the business. In this case, this VBR aproach is a no brainer and the cherry on top is that you get Constant Quality at Quantizer 22 which is very very good IQ!
So, hands to work, bake the Cake, mix Driftwood's MPEG settings, apply the P/B-Frame tricks and it was working on the third try. :O
It could have been a lot faster as I tried to best the 60i mode and leave all other modes alone. It ended up being the wrong choice because the 60i GOP isn't sticking and probably the Interlacing is making too big P-Frames around the I-Frames. In the end I managed to use tweak 24p for timelapses and the frame usage when there is no movement is a beautiful set of I-Frame spikes with all else almost null. 60i is now GOP13 on I/P frames exclusively and the P sizes look generous, so the starved P-Frames on 24p don't seem to affect it. 720p modes seem also unaffected. In the end this patch tries to give you the best 2fps and still leave you with 2 very workable modes without repatching: 1080i60 and 720p.
USE IT AND ABUSE IT. DON'T forget to weed out the starved frames in post. AfterEffects instructions here: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/49325#Comment_49325 and freeware workflow is here: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/39079#Comment_39079
Thank you @balazer for baking Cake.
Thank you @drifwood for the MJPEG settings and no B-Frame trick.
Thank you @lpowell for telling me how to starve the P-Frames.
Thank you @cbrandin for StreamParser 2.4 which gave me wonderful new numbers.
.
VERSION HISTORY :
1 - TimeBuster 1 - First Release
2 - TimeBuster 1.1 - with 2 significant changes:
Now based on @balazer 's Cake 1.1, it has switched to use the Rate Control mechanism from @LPowell 's FlowMotion 100.
720p mode was broken due to use of a very low quantizer (12) which lead to skipped frames in 720p. It now uses QP=20 on both 720 & 1080 modes which will have an observable effect in both bitrate & quality even though it still gives you 24+ hours on 64GB.
3 - TimeBuster 1.2 - with 1 significant change for a fully featured 720p mode:
4 - TimeBuster 1.3 - with a lot of significant changes:
Ported to PTTools 3.64d
Savings on P-Frames is now accomplished by using a Scaling Table that is full of 0xFFFF for 1080p modes.
Quantizer boundaries were removed since they are now much more dependent on the new Quantizer Tables.
Redesigned for merging, these definitions try to be as independent as possible from their re-packaging definitions (in this case FlowMotion 1.1) and are published in two flavors: Timebuster 1.3 Base (for merging) and Timebuster 1.3 FloMo (merged with FlowMotion 1.1)
NOTE1: Timebuster Base 1.3 was merge tested with @LPowell 's FlowMotion 1.1, @Balazer 's Cake 1.2 and Nick @Driftwood 's Quantum X (v2) with minimal impact on all modes except for 1080p. I recommend FlowMotion or Cake for the simple reason that the 1080p24 Frame Limit is set to a much higher value in these settings. In fact, if you care for nothing other than the 24p timelapse IQ and don't mind impacting some of the other modes, you should set it to 10,000,000.
NOTE2: Merging Timebuster Base 1.3 with other settings is easiest done by loading Timebuster Base 1.3 first and then Alt+Clicking your choice of merger.
5 - Timebuster is now comprised of 2 main variants:
a) 24h Timebuster 2.0 - with the following changes (from TimeBuster 1.3):
b) 24h TimeHBusteR 2.0 (NEW, uses HBR 30)
Similar philosophy to 24h Timebuster 2.0 Base but as the name suggests, uses HBR mode instead of 24p. There is another difference, P-Frame quality is fully preserved as this kind of frames is used for one of the interlaced slices on Key Frames.
GOP married to 1/2.5 on HBR 30p (NTSC) and to 1/5s on HBR 25p (PAL). The big benefit is that both are using a 360º shutter. Uncheck "1080i50 and 1080p24 GOP Size=5" before merging if you don't plan to use Shutter Speed (SS) =1/5s and want to better preserve the 24p mode and HBR 25.
Both variants are now:
Using B-Frames. There is a 6% penalty in bitrate usage but this was necessary to make sure the QP was respected. I believe the gain from setting the QP at will is just too great to ignore, since not everyone wants to record for 24h straight. QPs as low as QP=16 were tested and theoretically it could go as low as QP=12 @ISO160 when merged with FlowMotion 1.11 on regular tripod mounted footage.
GOP married to 2.5fps. The bitrate hit is a little above 20% but the recording length can be easily compensated by raising the QP. The reason behind this was getting as close as possible to 360º.
User definable GOP - GOP can be set at will according to intended SS, use the attached "GOP-SS-table.png" to look up the right value. Defaults settings are SS=2.5fps and GOP 1080i=10 for 24h Timebuster 2.0 and SS=2.5/5fps and GOP 1080i50/i60=12/5 for 24h TimeHBusteR 2.0.
User definable QP - QP can be set at will according to desired IQ/recording length. I've gathered quite an amount of information so that in the future I can make an Excel tool to estimate the best QP from Card Size/Footage Snapshot/Desired ISO/Recording Length. Default settings are Q24/23 for 24h Timebuster/TimeHBusteR.
As before, there is the Base Release to be merged at wish with popular settings (load Base first in PTTools and then "ALT+Click" your choice of merger) and there is also the FlowMotion Release (already merged with FlowMotion 1.11). I've merge tested against @lpowell 's FlowMotion 1.11, @balazer 's Cake 95, and @bkmcwd 's GOP3ZILLA and no undesirable effects were observed. The key is using a VBR settings definition with a very high "1080p24 Frame Limit", especially if you are going for a low QP (<22).
(edit) If you want to merge with Nick @driftwood 's settings, I recommend going for Cluster v1 as shines in being both a long GOP set and also having the biggest "1080p24 Frame Limit" of all the sets I know.
6 - Updated Release of Timebuster/timeHBusteR 2.02 FlowMotion - WARNING HBR version IS BROKEN at 24p
Since FlowMotion 2.02 looks very stable now, I'm releasing my pre-merged versions of Timebuster/timeHBusteR. There is nothing new regarding timelapsing except for FlowMotion's 2.02 changes.
24h Timebuster 2.02 FlowMotion which is 24h Timebuster 2.0 Base merged with FlowMotion 2.02
24h timeHBusteR 2.02 FlowMotion which is 24h timeHBusteR 2.0 Base merged with FlowMotion 2.02
7 - Updated Release of Timebuster/timeHBusteR 2.02 FlowMotion variants - 24p is now fixed on timeHBusteR. There was a note telling you should remove the "1080i50 and 1080p24 GOP Size=5" for better preserving 24p but no one seemed to read it and it was causing more trouble (to most of those who wanted 24p preserved) than it was worth (for those who wanted more timelapsing versatility.
NOTE: The mergeable timeHBusteR wasn't updated! Just the the FlowMotion variant. I ASSUME that if you are using this base for merging that YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, and read the DOC.
The day is not over. :)
Good evening everyone. I have had my GH2s for over a year, and have only dabbled with hacks because I am nervous to use them in a live shoot incase something goes wrong, I could loose out on having footage. I typically shoot live Rock bands. This year I will be filming 3 Cruises in April. (Monsters of Rock cruise, Moody Blues Cruise, and Cruise to the edge) I have 3 GH2 cameras (2 I bought new, and 1 I just purchased used) I would like to try one of the hacks that would be best for my type of shoots. Think Concert stage, can be inside with concert lighting and outside poolside or on the beach. I will also be doing a lot of meet and greets and interview stuff. The end result for everything I am shooting is for a DVD / Bluray disk for the People to buy (It will be a few months after the cruise) I have a few different lens, the 14-140 HD Panasonic lens looks the best over all. I did just purchase the 45-175 HD Power lens, I have only gotten to play with it a little, I got it to be more like a video camera with w/t toggle. SO far not to impressed. I also have a Large Canon lens that is modified to work with the camera. It is pretty good but I still need some time with it to use it better. (Canon BCTV lens with Powered w/t) I realize that I could record at much faster data rates that would make it look better but that would cut down on how much I could record. So I would like to keep my record times to allow for a 2 hour show. I already have about 8 of the San Disk Extreme 45MB/s and I have a few 40 and 30 cards as well. I would prefer not to buy anymore at this point. Any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated. Dave "Ravage" Stabley
I've got a GH2 as A cam and just recieved a GF3 as B cam that I'm using for skateboard filming and would like any suggestion to hack the GF3 for best motion and being fully stable cam (span etc) and GH2 for best shoots (I've tested MOON and looks great). Is GF3 hacking like GH2 hacking (same flow)? And can you use the same patches on both? THANKS.
Sorry guys for this ISO question - have a shoot tomorrow with a GH2 and forgot the rule about what ISO setting you should be on when you turn your camera off, in order to avoid the ISO bug when you turn camera on next. Anybody remember correct ISO to leave camera at when you turn it off? (Searched ISO bug topic but couldn't find).
Thanks and apologies for bringing up this old ISO demon topic!
I keep getting noise on these files. Any tips? SanDisk 32gb 95mb/s Extreme Pro 24p cinema Smooth all -2 24H f - 7.1 iso 160
I am using cake 2.3 with 64 gig 900 speed class 10 cards. everything is working fine. Im getting 2 hours of recording time with this patch on this 64 gig card. Does this seem right? Lastly using vegas ford editing how can I see what bit rates clips are recording at. is there software I need other than vegas 12 to see this? 2 hours record time is fine but this is a pretty mello patch seems like Id get alittle more than two hours. Thanks for any insight.
For over a year, there have been contrasting reports. Can @Vitaliy_kesselev give a final answer ? Is the GH2 HDMI output a YCbCr 8bit 4:2:0 or a YCbCr 8bit 4:2:2 with timing and cadence issues ?
On every thread, the opinions seem to change between 4:2:0 and 4:2:2.
Just asking for assessments from users of these two patches on gh2. Thanks.
I installed the latest flow motion hack the other day and when I try to revert back to factory settings the camera does not recognize the new file when I insert my memory card into the camera
Please don't kill me for this question I've searched these forums for 2 days. I know there's answers out there but can't quite find one to fit me.
Yep I want to hack the GH2. I just am doing green screen and want a nice clear image. Want a very reliable hack that's not going to destroy my camera.
Question 1. Which one do I buy?
Question 2. Once hack is installed do you just press record on the hacked settings to get the best video?
Once again don't kill me, I am just lost. I'll even donate money to the person that helps me out if I need to lol.
Hi folks,
I would like to know please if the Driftwood Drewnet T9 hack is the best for the GH2 for filming aerial UAV footage? From looking at the excellent feedback from Drewnet, I believe T9 may be one of the best ...
Is it reliable?
Will it be good for aerial filming of motocross?
I have a standard 14 - 42mm lens.
I have a SanDisk 32GB Extreme Pro 95MB/s mbps card - will this suffice or do I need to buy another 64GB card (also 95MB/s mbps)?
Or is the Drewnet T9 hack more than 95mbps?
Sorry if this is already covered but I have looked for a few hours in this site.
This site is a fantastic resource! Big thanks to all who contribute.
Many thanks for any responses,
Swoopy (in UK)
Hi all,
I'm a GH2 user that is still using an unhacked camera. I've been asked to write an article for the next edition of the Institute Of Videography magazine and I'd like to focus on my experience of the GH2 along with the updates promised with the GH4. The article is for people considering moving into DSLR from HDV cameras. I obviously need to highlight the hacks and have done some research, but could really use a chat with someone who knows what they are talking about... If you've got experience of hacks and are willing to take a newbie through the basics over the phone I'd be extremely grateful, and obviously give you a big credit. (I've noticed some fairly harsh treatment of GH2 newbies looking for advice, so please understand I'm a self shooting producer not a technician or engineer, and be kind!)
If you're interested in helping me out please PM me with a number and I'll call you back ....
FYI I'm based in the UK.
thanks in advance.
Alan
Hi guys,
I searched the forum and the whole internet for this problem, but didn't find any post or anyone having this problem, so I started a new topic for this and hope I didn't search for the wrong keywords... ;). I am using the GH2 for video shooting very short time and all I am doing these days is not really working well. I know that it should be easy to use firmware patches but for me it turns out not to be that easy as it maybe should. I used a few patches and tested around with each for quite a bit and tried to check wether the patch is working fine or if there are occuring errors while recording. I would need a very stable patch since I always need to record longer footage... not just 15min, but most of the time 2-3 hours. I found that SD card speed is a thing which is why I bought the SanDisk Extreme Pro with 95MB/sec. Used the Sanity 4.1 Patch which should be stable, but the cam stops recording video after some time (I couldn't specify when it does) without any error. It just stops recording and doesn't write the file completely to the card. Used the Quantum X SpanMyBitchUp and I get the same error. Also tried some other patches, some came up with errors that the card is not fast enough, some didn't... most of them didn't...
Since I can't tell why that is and I don't know how to find out why the cam stops recording I am not sure what to do next. Fact is that the patches really do enhance the quality which I would not love to miss ;).
Can anyone help me with this? All the best from Hamburg, Thomas